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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.